It already feels like this adventure happened months ago, even though it was only a few weeks ago. Numerous trips to Belize have led me to the prolific permit flats on Ambergris Caye, Turneffe Atoll, and Punta Gorda. Until now, I had never fished the pancake flats between Dangriga and Placencia, Belize. For years I let the stories of long boat rides and picky fish deter me from making my own judgement. Shame on me for not fishing these fantastic permit flats sooner.
When the invite for a visit to Tarpon Caye Lodge came across my desk, I quickly adjusted my schedule and booked a flight. The thought of sunny skies, crashing waves, and tailing permit was just what I needed to make it through the final (I hope) blast of winter weather here in Bozeman.
Late in the afternoon, I loaded onto the plane en route to Atlanta - where I would spend one more night dreaming of salty air and my favorite fish. My host and I connected at our gate in the Atlanta airport. Another short flight and we would be landing in Belize City, then hoping a ‘puddle jumper’ to Placencia. Once on the ground in Placencia, we were transported to the marina, where ‘first mate’ at Tarpon Caye Lodge - Carlito - meet us with an ice cold Belikin. Soon, legendary permit guide and manager of Tarpon Caye Lodge, Charlie Leslie Sr. arrived at the boat. Greetings where had, as the boat was loaded with the week’s supplies… I was happy to see plenty of Belikin on board.
The easy, 45 minute boat ride concluded as we entered the lagoon at Tarpon Caye. I quickly realized where the name came from - I spotted a dozen 15-30 pound tarpon cruising both the inner and outer lagoons. Giant ‘bait balls’ keep these fish from migrating too far from the island. My excitement grew as my mind filled with visions of a jumping tarpon on the end of my line.
The entire island staff was there to greet us as Charlie masterfully slid the boat into its slip. A quick round table of hellos and introductions were had before we were shown to our cabana - a modest, but efficient structure over the water that would be perfect for deep sleep and cleaning up after a day of hunting permit. It didn’t take long for me to make myself at home. I quickly unpacked and organizing my tackle. I couldn’t wait to get on the water.
Once settled in, we had a tasty lunch on the deck of the Pesky Permit. Big schools of jacks crashed bait just off the edge of the reef and school of migrating tarpon rolled on the surface - no doubt enjoying the same schools of bait. I couldn’t stand it any more… the kayak was calling.
Armed with a ten weight and a gummy minnow, I paddled the kayak into the lagoon. The sun had begun it’s afternoon decent and the glare on the water gave the advantage to the fish. I managed to turn a ‘poon, but didn’t get the full commitment. The kayaks that Tarpon Caye provides are perfect DIY fishing vessels. Their stability is surprising. They allow an angler to stand and cast without worry about falling in.
I returned to the lodge just in time for a quick shower before dinner was served. We joined a group of anglers from Pennsylvania who had finished their last day of fishing and would be heading back to the states in the morning. The meal was a traditional Belizean dinner, with plenty of recado chicken, rice and beans, and fried plantain (my favorite). The highlight was the inclusion of a local delicacy - gibnut - a.k.a. the ‘royal rat’. The story goes that gibnut was served to the Queen of England during her visit to Belize (back when it was British Honduras). Gibnut is basically a giant gerbil, but it tastes more pig, roasted pig. It was surprisingly delicious. All agreed the ‘Royal Rat’ was a winner.
A full belly spawned the need to rest after a long couple of days of travel and my first hot afternoon in the sun. The breeze moved through the windows creating a hypnotic song that lulled me to sleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. When the alarm rang before the sun, I was rested and ready for a day of hunting ‘black tailed devils’
The program at Tarpon Caye Lodge is to ‘Fish the tides, not the Clock’. During our stay, the best tides where mid morning, so we woke before the sun, jump started the day with coffee, fruit, and sweet rolls. By 6 am, as the sun was breaking the horizon, we shoved the panga off the dock. On this morning, Carlito would be our guide. Later I was informed that it was his first time as a ‘solo’ guide. Until that morning, he had been Charlie’s apprentice. Turns out he’s an astute pupil and his studies would pay off before the clock ticked 7.
On the second flat of the morning, Carlito spotted a tailing permit and moved the boat into position so that we could exit and make a stealthy approach on our target. I made a few casts, but none moved the fish - neither enticed nor spooked it. We followed the fish across the flat as it hunting for it’s next meal. Like permit do so often, it disappeared. We waited. Then two new fish entered the flat and began to aggressively feed. A feeling of confidence came over me.
We moved into position to attack the hungry pair. Carlito instructed me with precision of a veteran guide. He kept his cool while sharing in this exciting moment. I delivered the fly a few inches from the tailing fish. I could hear Carlito whispering ‘sloooow strip, slooow’ followed by ‘he’s got it’ as the line went tight. Game on!
Once the fish was hooked the game rapidly changed. The pancake flats in the South Water Caye Marine Reserve are guarded by large coral heads. An permit with a fly in it’s lip has an inherent knowledge to swim near those coral heads, wrapping the angler’s line while freeing themselves. Carlito raced to the boat while boat tender Jose raced to him and me. I held my line as high above me as my arms would extend, praying the fish wouldn’t find any coral heads. The fire drill subsided once we were in the boat and drifting in deep water. Within a few minutes Carlito gripped the tail of the modest 8 pounder and our boat erupted in cheers.
No doubt Carlito was the most excited. He had made short work of ‘guiding’ a client into permit. It took him all of 60 minutes on his first day as a guide to put a fish in the boat. I’ll look forward to fishing with him again and seeing him evolve into a legendary Belizean guide.
We returned to the lodge round 11 am for ‘breakfast’, followed by a siesta. The panga shoved off for the after/evening session around 2 pm. We searched another Caye for tarpon, with little success. The same was true of our last light permit hunt. The tides were more conducive for bring permit onto the flats earlier in the day.
The rest of our week was spent in a carbon copy of day one. We woke ahead of the sunrise and fished until the productive tides receded each day. Two more fish were hooked and lost. Both in heartbreaking fashion.
The highlight of the trip was learning from the master permit angler/guide, Charlie Leslie Sr. He showed me new techniques for catching tailing permit. A simple way to present the fly to a feeding permit that was counter intuitive in it’s simplicity. I’ll delve deeper into this technique in another blog article.
Tarpon Caye Lodge is my ‘new’ favorite permit fishery. While it could be fickle during less ideal tides, there is no doubt in my mind that the perfect conditions will yield high numbers of quality shots each day. I’ve never experienced a fishery that has more tailing permit. If you enjoy wade fishing for tailing permit, then there is no better place to visit than Tarpon Caye Lodge. If you want more information about booking your next angling adventure to Tarpon Caye, please contact me below.